Top 10 Things to Do in Paleochora: Your Ultimate Insider Guide to Crete’s Southwest
Paleochora - a place that combines the best of Crete. A place full of beauty and contrasts. A romantic and authentic nest surrounded by the graceful, wild mountain ranges of the White Mountains. Gentle beaches, inviting tavernas, wild hikes and breathtaking excursions through imposing landscapes can be combined on a holiday in Paleochora. Want to get to know the true Cretan soul? Congratulations on discovering Paleochora and the wild south-west of Crete! In this article, I invite you to discover the 10 best highlights and insider tips for a Paleochora holiday! I myself lived and spent many months of my life in what I consider to be the most beautiful (and also the sunniest) place in Crete and was able to get to know the place as it really is. Let yourself be inspired and experience why the Cretan heart beats in Paleochora! ... and also that of the island of Gavdos.
#2: Gialiskari Beach
#1: Venetian Fort : A Must-See Highlight in Paleochora
Many great sights in and around Paleochora can be explored on foot, including the Venetian Fort Selino. If you stroll through the village, you will quickly recognise the foundation wall above the village. The old fort seems to tower over the town. Built in 1282 by the Venetians, the fortress served to secure Venetian rule in south-west Crete. The headland on which today's town is located was ideal for strategic defence. Over the centuries, the history of the fort was characterised by destruction and reconstruction. Today, only the foundation walls are still recognisable. An interesting journey into the past for visitors. But the breathtaking view in all directions is even more appealing. Especially in the evening at the golden hour, you can watch beautiful sunsets. Take your time, sit down with a cool drink and watch as night gradually falls over the place. Several spots along the wall offer great places to sit with views in different directions. The castle on the hill above the town is also worth a visit in the morning when the sun is still low in the sky.
#2: Gialiskari Beach
Gialiskari Beach, just a few kilometres from Paleochora, is a real paradise for nature lovers and those seeking peace and quiet. Nestled between rolling hills and surrounded by wild greenery, this beach will delight you with its unspoilt nature and diversity. A beach that could grace any postcard!
It's worth the journey alone. Depending on your pace, it takes 45 to 60 minutes to walk from the centre of Paleochora. The path always runs along the coast and offers many different and impressive sections. The beach can also be reached by car via the same route.
The beach itself is divided into several smaller bays, which are characterised by pebbles and fine sand. The water is crystal clear and shimmers in impressive shades of blue and turquoise - perfect for cooling off or snorkelling. A big plus point of Gialiskari is its tranquillity. Compared to the beaches directly in Paleochora, it is less busy here, so you can relax and enjoy the sun. Make sure you pack water and food, as there is no infrastructure here apart from a small kiosk or taverna. The beautiful hike through the Anydri Gorge also starts right at Gialiskari Beach!
#3: Gramennou Beach: A taste of Gavdos near Paleochora
We stay in the beach mood and look westwards from Paleochora. Gramennou Beach is special because you can experience the real Gavdos vibes there. If you stroll through the sand in Grammenou and start daydreaming, you'll feel like you're stranded on Gavdos. The reason for this is the many juniper trees sprouting from the sand. Gentle dunes complete the overall picture. Grammenou is not a beach in the true sense of the word, but a small peninsula covered in trees and sand dunes. Small, beautiful bays open up along the coast. A great place to let yourself drift and find the perfect spot for a relaxing day at the beach. You'll definitely find the perfect spot! By the way, there is also a private campsite near Gramennou. Gramennou can also be easily reached on foot from Paleochora.
#4 Azogires: A village with a past, a future and a history of Gavdos
As you stroll along the main street in the village, you can sense that there is something special in this place. From the village centre, a hiking trail leads through wild nature past olive trees, caves and waterfalls before reaching the Monastery of the 99 Saints. A religiously imposing monument, hidden deep between trees, gorges and caves. Interestingly, the story of the 99 saints is closely linked to the island of Gavdos. Around 1300 AD, a group of 99 monks sailed from Cyprus from country to country to teach the Christian faith. Due to strong winds, they had to stop on Gavdos. Lack of water was a problem for them. After days of prayer, they were able to draw clear drinking water from a rock so that the monks could stay on the island for several weeks. After heading north, the saints finally landed at Paleochora to colonise the surrounding caves at Azogires. One particularly impressive cave full of stalactites, the ‘Soure Cave’, lies to the north-west of Azogires. It can be climbed via a metal staircase and is very deep. There is a spring and a small chapel at the bottom of the cave.
But Azogires is not only living from its past - the local ‘Azogire’ Eftychios ‘Lucky’ Koukoutsakis is revitalising the village with his energy and vision. Lucky, a charismatic and passionate local, has made it his mission to turn Azogires into an attraction for travellers seeking authenticity. He puts his heart and soul into running the Alfa Cafe, which not only offers delicious local dishes and drinks, but also serves as an information centre for visitors. There is no service outside of the season, but the café is still open. You can take drinks from a fridge and pay in a trust fund. Not so long ago, a small art gallery opened directly opposite. The Alfa Hotel is also located in the same building as the Alfa Café. If you are particularly interested in the history of the place, you can take part in a three-hour tour with ‘Lucky’. Very worthwhile!
Azogires is a real insider tip for nature and hiking enthusiasts. There are numerous hiking trails around the village, which lead through dense forests and impressive gorges to hidden waterfalls. One of the most famous trails is the path through the Azogires Gorge, which allows you to immerse yourself in the unspoilt nature of the region.
#5 Hike from Sougia to the Roman City of Lissos: One of the best day trips
One of the most beautiful and varied day trips you can make from Paleochora and almost a must. Starting point of this tour: Sougia.
The beautiful and sleepy coastal town of Sougia lies to the east of Paleochora. A small nest, surrounded by high mountains, with a beautiful, long beach and an inviting promenade. There are also rooms and tavernas. Sougia is the ultimate starting point for hikes of all kinds in almost all directions. The village can be reached via a very winding road from Paleochora. A much more relaxed option, however, is to simply take the ferry from Paleochora. The ferry company Anendyk leaves Paleochora several times a week for Gavdos. On the way, a stopover is made in Sougia (and Agia Roumeli). The ferry departs in the early hours of the morning and is therefore ideal for a subsequent hiking tour from Sougia to Lissos and even back to Paleochora if required.
The hike to the ancient Roman harbour town of Lissos takes around 90 minutes each way. The small town full of ruins is rich in history and culture. Abandoned stone houses, chapels, temples and even mosaic floors can be marvelled at. Lissos was an important trading centre in ancient Rome. Coins were even minted there. When you arrive at the village today, there is usually complete silence - the goats are now the inhabitants of the village. The hiking trail from Sougia to the village is no less spectacular. The well-maintained and well-marked hiking trail mostly leads through wooded and wild sections. An absolute highlight of the trail is the Lissos Gorge. An imposing cliff that crescents over the heads of hikers.
Other sections of the trail offer beautiful views and photo spots. A really great hike! Once you arrive in Lissos, the question arises: return to Sougia or walk on to Paleochora? The decision should be well planned. You can top up on water again in Lissos. It's another 3 hours' walk to Paleochora - often exposed to the full sun and without a water point. Nevertheless, this route is highly recommended. The path mostly winds along the coast. There are great views of the coast, the sea and the island of Gavdos! If you don't want to do this long walk, you can return to Sougia - enjoy a coffee or a beer and take the afternoon ferry back to Paleochora! A fantastic trip full of happiness and great memories ends back in Paleochora.
#6 Authentic and historic Crete in the mountain village of Kandanos
Kandanos, just 20 kilometres north of Paleochora, is a place that embodies authentic and historic Crete in a special way. The village is located on the road that connects the north coast with Paleochora and is often unjustifiably overlooked by passers-by at first glance.
Nestled in green olive groves and surrounded by impressive gorges, the mountain village reflects the traditional life of the island. Quiet alleyways, small tavernas and friendly locals invite you to experience the Cretan way of life in its most original form. Here, the local Cretans still sit in their traditional way with their chairs by the roadside and observe and (perhaps?!) comment on the events of the day.
But Kandanos also tells a story of courage and tragedy. During the Second World War, the village was completely destroyed by German occupying forces in 1941. This happened in retaliation for the determined resistance of the villagers against the German invasion. The destruction of Kandanos was an incisive event that will be remembered through memorial monuments and plaques in the village. These memorials are reminders of the victims and the unbroken resilience of the inhabitants. Particularly impressive is a memorial plaque left behind by the occupying forces, which describes Kandanos as ‘destroyed forever’ - a sombre symbol of the horrors of that time.
Take your time and explore this place at your leisure. Don't miss out on a visit to one of the very traditional and local tavernas or cafés. You can really immerse yourself in local life. When you visit one of the tavernas, you immediately realise that there are far fewer tourists than in Paleochora itself, for example. Accordingly, you will be looked after very well and your wishes will be catered for. From my own experience, I can highly recommend the two tavernas on the street ‘I Platia’ and ‘To Mesostrato’.
Hiking enthusiasts should also take a look at the ‘Kandanos Gorge’!
#7 Tavernas in Paleochora
If you're on holiday in Paleochora, one thing is certain: you won't go hungry. There is an almost endless choice of tavernas, cafés, snack bars and more. I have travelled to Paleochora countless times, lived there for over half a year and was able to get a broad overview of all the tavernas in town. In this section, I will show you my personal culinary highlights.
Whenever I return to Paleochora, I usually find myself at Pandelis on the first evening. A small, rather inconspicuous taverna in the town centre, which is mostly open all year round. The taverna is family-run. Grandma is one of the chefs. In summer, you can sit under a canopy of leaves in an alleyway between the houses. In winter, the fireplace is lit and the candlelight creates a romantic atmosphere. The selection on the menu may not be as large as in other restaurants on the promenade, but the quality of the food is top shelf. Try it out!
When you think of a Greek taverna, the term ‘pizza’ is certainly not the first thing that springs to mind. Nevertheless, I would like to take up the keyword pizza. In the centre of the promenade, you will find two very well-run pizzerias run by the same owner. I'm talking about the Pizzeria Odysseia and the Portofino restaurant. Here you can enjoy the best pizza in the most marvellous ambience alongside many local and typical Greek dishes. A real eye-catcher: sitting in the restaurant, you can watch the pizza chef preparing the pizza. The dough is turned and prepared in a well-staged manner before the finished pizza is placed in a large wood-fired oven. The service is also fast and professional. In summer, it can sometimes be difficult to get a table. It is not for nothing that both restaurants are very busy. Often at least one of the two restaurants is also open in winter and is extremely popular with the locals! And that is always a sign of good quality!
The ‘Meltemi’ café, formerly ‘The Water Edge Cafe’, takes a completely different approach. The small taverna is run by local Cretan Haris and his wife Katalin. As is so often the case in Paleochora, Haris' family roots lie on Gavdos! So it seems almost a coincidence that the taverna offers a direct and immediate view of Gavdos (when visibility is good). Café Meltemi is a special place. A colourful mix of different people and personalities meet here. Holidaymakers, dropouts, life artists, seekers (as well as people who have long since found themselves), fishermen, locals and also people who just like to drink beer and raki. This colourful mix creates a unique energy. No place in Paleochora is like this! The Meltemi is open every day - every day of the year! There is a wide selection of different dishes. From small starters to snacks, salads, breakfast variations and daily specials. Haris attaches great importance to the quality of the food - the fish is delivered daily by local fishermen and is freshly caught! Haris also rents out rooms.
If you walk further out of town from Cafe Meltemi, you will reach another very interesting restaurant in just a few minutes. It is also hard to miss. This is the Methexis Taverna. The taverna has a small beach of the same name and the associated beach loungers. If you walk into the taverna, you will quickly recognise a connection to the island of Gavdos. Maps of the island adorn the walls. Once again, it is clear that the locals have a close connection to the neighbouring island. At Methexis you dine in an indescribable ambience. The food is excellent. In summer there is plenty of outdoor seating. From the terrace you have an unmistakable view of the Libyan Sea, the island of Gavdos and the mountain ranges of the White Mountains, including the ‘Crocodile’.
#8 Trip to Elafonisi
Okay, you may have been wishing for all the insider tips and may now be thinking: ‘Elafonisi again?’ However, it must be said that Elafonisi is unquestionably beautiful and is unique and special on the entire island of Crete, perhaps even in the entire Mediterranean. Everyone who comes to Crete should have visited Elafonisi (at least) once. Paleochora is the ideal starting point. If you take a closer look, Elafonisi is actually an island. The term ‘Nisi’ (Greek: island) already reveals it. The beach of the same name and the beaches of the island of Elafonisi are reminiscent of a paradise in the Caribbean. Turquoise blue water, small waves, fine sand that turns pink in the sunlight. From ‘Elafonisi Beach’ you can walk knee-deep over to the island of the same name. Small groups of trees provide shade.
Sounds like the perfect place, doesn't it? In terms of scenery, this beach is one of the best that Crete has to offer. But the big disadvantage is obvious: in summer you can hardly save yourself from tourists. That's why I can only recommend a trip to Elafonisi to a limited extent in high summer (mid-June to mid-September). Either you arrive very early and leave the beach before the masses of tourists arrive, or you visit the beach in the low season or even in winter. The beach can be reached by car from Paleochora via a very winding asphalt road in around 1-1.5 hours. Several providers also offer boat trips from Paleochora to Elafonisi (and back). Those who are more hardy can also walk. You can reach Elafonisi directly along the coast (E4 hiking trail) in approx. 4-5 hours. Here's a tip: Take the bus, taxi or tram to Krios Beach and start your hike from there. This will save you the first, rather uninteresting section along the main road! Take enough water with you! Basically, the path is not particularly difficult and is well marked. However, the sun does the rest!
#9 A journey to Gavdos
Paleochora is not only a wonderful holiday destination in itself - it is also one of the most important gateways to the island of Gavdos. If you decide to travel to the wild south-west of Crete, you should definitely consider making a detour to the southernmost island in Europe. Gavdos is the epitome of authenticity, freedom and pure nature. Once you've been there, you'll quickly understand why many visitors keep coming back.
You can easily reach Gavdos by ferry from Paleochora. The ferry company Anendyk runs several times a week (see timetable) between Paleochora and Gavdos, making a stopover in Sougia and Agia Roumeli. The crossing takes around 4.5 hours - a relaxing sea journey across the Libyan Sea with impressive views of the Cretan coast. If you are thinking of visiting Gavdos, you should plan your trip well. Accommodation is limited and the infrastructure is minimalist. But that's exactly what makes the island so appealing!
Gavdos is a paradise for hikers, nature lovers and all those who want to escape the hustle and bustle. There are no large hotel complexes, no tourist entertainment, but instead endless beaches, wild forests and a sky that shows more stars at night than you have probably ever seen. The most beautiful beaches such as Sarakiniko, Agios Ioannis and Lavrakas invite you to linger. The famous wooden chair on Cape Tripiti marks the southernmost point of Europe - an absolute highlight that you shouldn't miss!
Make sure you plan a few days for your trip to Gavdos. The crossing is not worthwhile as a day trip or is currently not feasible due to the ferry situation. Take a few days to explore this wonderful island. It is well worth it!
#10 Explore the long-distance hiking trail E4!
Paleochora and Crete in general not only attract visitors with their beautiful beaches, but also prove to be a real paradise for hikers. The entire region in and around south-west Crete in particular offers numerous hikes and tours ranging from easy to absolute professional level. The selection is so extensive that it could fill its own blog article, if not its own website. I'll try to keep it short: The E4 hiking trail crosses the island from west to east. The western section in particular is considered to be especially varied and challenging. Paleochora is located directly on the E4. You therefore have the choice of which direction you want to hike in to walk the E4. To the west of Paleochora, the E4 leads along the coast to Elafonisi. The path leads past secluded little bays and isolated cliffs through unspoilt nature. You should allow 4 to 5 hours. When hiking along the E4, always take plenty of water with you and wear good shoes. You are often directly exposed to the sun - there is rarely any shade.
The route east of Paleochora is even more spectacular. There, the path leads along the coast to Sougia. Compared to the western route, the path has significantly more elevation metres and is more varied in my opinion. Shortly before Sougia, the hike takes you through the abandoned ancient Roman town of Lissos before you reach the beautiful coastal town of Sougia through the Lissos Gorge of the same name. From there, you can take a ferry to Paleochora in the afternoon. If you prefer something more challenging, you can take a hike from Sougia towards Agia Roumeli. This section is considered the ‘ ultimate challenge’ on the coastal passage between Elafonisi and Chora Sfakion. Poorly marked, stony ground and rugged, sometimes difficult to walk sections on metre-high cliffs make hiking a sport. This trail should definitely only be attempted by experienced and enduring hikers. However, the challenging tour is well worth it: In terms of scenery, this region is, in my opinion, the best Crete has to offer. The rocks, cliffs and mountains, coupled with the sea. Breathtaking. Plus small forests, wild mountain herbs and goats crossing the path. Here you will experience the island in all its unspoilt glory. The highlights of these sections are Cape Tripiti (yes, this also exists on Crete) with the Tripiti Gorge of the same name, Domata Beach and Agios Pavlos Beach to the east of Agia Roumeli.
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