Southwest Crete and Gavdos: round trip via Paleochora, Gavdos and Chora Sfakion
Updated: 3 days ago
The southwest of Crete and the island of Gavdos are exciting and sometimes breathtaking travel destinations that are not yet overrun by tourists. Perfect for individual travelers! You can still experience authentic Greece there. Hidden behind a massive mountain range, the White Mountains, lies a fascinating region of contrasts. The southwest of Crete is wild and sometimes harsh, yet at the same time untouched and beautiful. Fantastic bays are combined with massive mountain ranges and steep cliffs in the landscape. Vibrant nature, gorges, the scent of herbs and the endless Libyan Sea complete the perfect scenery. And the island of Gavdos sits proudly on the horizon. Far away and yet so close. The ferries operated by the “Anendyk” shipping company connect all the important destinations in the region and allow you to plan a spectacular round trip. A route via Paleochora, Sougia, Agia Roumeli, Gavdos, Chora Sfakion and Loutro. In this article, I will take you on a fictitious round trip along these spectacular destinations and show you the important highlights of these stopovers.
#1 Paleochora - the pearl in the southwest of Crete
Our fictitious tour starts in Paleochora, the lively nest near the south-westernmost tip of Crete. Surrounded by a high mountain range, you literally feel cut off from the hustle and bustle of the north coast. Paleochora is a place of peace and quiet. The village is easily accessible from Chania. You can reach the village by car in about 1.5 hours. Bus connections run daily, depending on the time of year also several times a day. You can find the bus timetable here. Please note: If you come by bus, be prepared for winding roads and, if possible, postpone the wine tasting the evening before. You can find bus connections here. Paleochora is located on a peninsula and has a very special charm of its own that cannot be found anywhere else on Crete. It's not for nothing that the town is my second home of choice alongside Gavdos. The place is surrounded by beautiful nature. A large, long sandy beach right in the village invites you to take a dip. The town itself has many very passionately run and authentic tavernas. Here I can recommend the “Palm Tree” (best coffee in town and varied food), the “Pantelis” and “Methexis” (best local cuisine in town) and the “Pizzaria Odyssee”.
Also stop by the Pearl Cavo and let yourself be surprised - a unique place! As Paleochora is not a classic “tourist town”, you will often come into contact with the locals. The kafenions are often full and small to medium-sized groups of men discuss the current situation over a raki and a beer or two. There are no really big hotels, but there are many nice accommodations of all kinds. You can find an overview of all accommodation here *. Paleochora is closely linked to the island of Gavdos. In the course of a large wave of emigration from Gavdos to Crete, many “Gavdiotes” settled in Paleochora. The old town of the village is also affectionately known as the “Gavdos district”, where many houses are reminiscent of the typical simple architectural style of Europe's southernmost island. Many of the locals living there have their roots on Gavdos. The Methexis or the Cafenion “Meltemi” is run by direct descendants of families from Gavdos. A variety of great tours and excursions can be started from Paleochora. The beaches “Gialiskari” and “Grammeno” are within walking distance. The latter is reminiscent of the landscape on Gavdos. Many beautiful hikes can be started from Paleochora. The classic routes are the tour through the Anidri Gorge or the coastal trail to Sougia. You can get to Elafonisi quickly by car or by boat in summer. Perhaps the most beautiful beach on the island!? Attention: In summer this beach is unfortunately very crowded. After a few days in Paleochora, you can take the ferry to Sougia in the morning when the sun is low.
#2: Sougia: the wild hiker`s paradise
After a beautiful journey along a breathtaking stretch of coastline, the ferry docks for the first time: Sougia, the next destination. A few people leave the boat. Most of them are carrying hiking boots and a backpack with well-filled water bottles. Sougia is much smaller than Paleochora and is considered by many to be a stopover or starting point for excursions and spectacular hikes of various kinds. There is also a large camper community in the village - you get a slight “Gavdos vibe”. In total, the village has just over 100 inhabitants. However, it doesn't feel like that in summer, as the few accommodations are all very busy. Friendly tavernas invite you for coffee and breakfast as you stroll along the promenade from the boat.
You are rarely alone, because after a short time a cat will join you at the table. Depending on how adventurous you are, you can easily spend a few days in Sougia. Many hikes of all levels of difficulty can be started from the small coastal town. The well-known E4 hiking trail runs right past the village. A beautiful circular walk to the west leads through a small but impressive gorge to the eponymous village of Lissos - an ancient Minoan settlement in very good condition. The route is not particularly crowded, even in summer. The path winds its way through sections of wild forest. Many goats cross the path. Once you arrive in Lissos, you can freshen up in the cool water.
Those who like things a little “wilder” can set off on another day trip to the coastal path to the east. A challenging hike takes you to remote areas at the foot of the White Mountains. After around 3 hours, a path that climbs high up ends at the Prophitis Elias chapel. From there you have a sensational view in all directions. If visibility is good, you can clearly see Gavdos on the horizon. Towards the east you can see the mystical beach “Domata”. Right next to the chapel, the foundation walls of an Ottoman defense system can hardly be overlooked. If you still have energy left, you can descend from the church to the Tripiti Gorge. After two beautiful days of hiking, with plenty of sunshine and some mountain air, and a lovely last evening in a taverna in Sougia, the next morning we take the ferry to Agia Roumeli.
#3 Agia Roumeli: Where the sea and Samaria Gorge kiss
The sound of the sea, the clucking of chickens and the odd goat on the mountainside. There is often a gentle breeze. Peace and quiet in this picturesque coastal village. However, this changes once a day when more than 2000 hikers from the Samaria Gorge suddenly arrive in the village and wait for the boat to pick them up. The gentle wind turns into a storm. A short time later, the great silence returns. Agia Roumeli is much more than just a place for a quick stroll after a long hike. However, as we arrive in the morning by boat from Sougia, this doesn't bother us much, as those who arrive in the village by boat in the morning can take their time to explore the village and the immediate surroundings. The surrounding area is particularly impressive!
The Samaria Gorge can not only be hiked from the Omalos plateau, but can also be crossed in the opposite direction. The big advantage: you can explore the gorge completely alone at the beginning. You only need to walk through small parts of the gorge and return to Agia Roumeli when you feel like it. It is not very far to the famous Iron Gate. Agia Roumeli offers many small and beautiful accommodations. You can also eat very well. So it's worth staying here for a night or two. The town is also very popular with campers and free sleepers. When arriving by boat, the castle above the village often catches the eye. A trip there is well worthwhile. A hike to the east to Agios Pavlos beach is almost a must. For me, this is perhaps the most beautiful beach on the entire island. Absolutely wild and untouched and with one or two surprises that you wouldn't expect to find there. Find out for yourself.
After two great days of hiking and exploring, it's now time for the crossing to the island of Gavdos. The boat reaches the port of Agia Roumeli in the early hours of the morning. There are not many people at the harbor. Some “crazy” people are sitting on the boat as we board. Some with tents or sleeping mats on their rucksacks. Next destination: Gavdos!
#4 Gavdos: Journey the southernmost point in Europe
The boat casts off and turns south. The massive island of Crete gradually recedes. The true size of the island and the imposing shape of the white mountains (“Lefka Ori”) gradually come into view. Looking in the other direction, the seemingly small, unknown island on the horizon slowly draws closer.
Gavdos is not suitable for a day trip. Take your time and get to know this special place. There should be no rush. If you only have a short time, you should still plan a minimum of 3 nights if possible. More is always better in this case. Gavdos is an island full of magic. A place that is unlike any other. To get a first general overview of the island, I can recommend this blog article. You can find lots more information about the island on my website or in my travel guide. There are two options for staying overnight on Gavdos: accommodation or a tent. It's up to your personal preference. You can find an overview of the accommodation here. In our fictitious trip, we spent 3 nights in the “Four Brothers Rooms” in Sarakiniko. There, the beach is literally at our feet.
Romantic tavernas are in the immediate vicinity. You can dine on freshly prepared local island food with your feet in the sand to the sound of the sea. Thanks to good bus connections, we can start various activities every day. A hike to Cape Tripiti is a must, as is a trip to the lighthouse in the evening. Of course, Agios Ioannis beach and a beautiful beach walk to Lavrakas are also a must. If you still have time, you should definitely hike to Potamos. Rumor has it that it could be the most beautiful beach on the island. After three wonderful days and a brief refreshment in the clear water at Sarakiniko beach, we take the bus to the port to catch the boat back to Crete. Next destination: Chora Sfakion.
#5 Chora Sfakion: the gate to Sfakia
The boat approaches the Cretan “mainland” and reaches Chora Sfakion in the afternoon. We will stay in the village for two more days to explore the surrounding area. Chora Sfakion, also known simply as “Sfakia”, is the perfect starting point. The regional district of Sfakia comprises several small villages and towns, most of which are located deep within the Lefka Ori, the White Mountains. The old Cretan traditions are practiced there like in no other place on the island. The proud region is rugged, as are the people who live there. At the same time, you are overcome by a feeling of comfort and warmth. Sfakia on Crete is a world of its own, with a history all of its own. The bullet-riddled street signs speak their own language. If you want to experience traditional Crete up close, you should immerse yourself in this world.
Chora Sfakion offers a wide range of different types of accommodation. From low-budget (Hotel Alkyon) to luxury (Ventus Luxury Suites), everything is available. In summer, the rooms in the village can be very busy, which is why it's a good idea to book early. We stay in the beautiful and modern Samaria Hotel. From the balcony, you have a fantastic view over the town's harbor as far as the open sea. After a quick dip at the small beach “Vrisi Beach” at sunset, we head to the extremely authentic and traditional “Delfini Taverna”. Fresh local dishes are prepared there every day. Good, freshly tapped beer is of course also available. With the best view of the harbor, you can sit there in the best atmosphere and listen to the waves. The selection and quality of the tavernas in Chora Sfakion is large and the crowds are high in the high and low seasons. If you come in winter, you can sit with the locals at Delfini. On cold days and strong southerly winds, the fireplace crackles comfortably. After a quiet night, it's time to get out of bed early. The place is particularly beautiful early in the morning at sunrise. If you have a good nose, you will notice the sweet smell of fresh pastries in the narrow streets of the village. The “Ntourountous” bakery prepares fresh and traditional “sfakiot” pastries daily and all year round. It's a wonderful place to have breakfast with good coffee. But we don't stay there for very long, because the big highlight of the day is approaching: a trip to Loutro.
#6 Loutro: The place from the postcard
Calm waves, snow-white houses, turquoise blue water and romantic fishing boats. Behind them, the fantastic mountain panorama. Loutro is the southern Greek island dream come true. A place that could grace any postcard. From Chora Sfakion, the village can be reached in a short time by ferry from Anendyk. Various taxi boats also offer trips to the small fishing village of Loutro several times a day. You can't go there by car, as there are no roads leading to the village. But my personal tip for getting to Loutro: Simply walk there. The route from Chora Sfakion to Loutro is considered one of the most beautiful and picturesque coastal trails in Crete. It takes about 3 hours to cover the distance. On the way back you can easily take a taxiboot. The advantage of a hike or cab boat tour: you can make a stopover at the beautiful “Sweet Water Beach”.
Sweet Water Beach is a large, long pebble beach below a huge mountain cliff. The name was not chosen by accident. From the cliff behind the beach, a stream of fresh water runs underneath the beach. If you dig a small hole in the pebbly sand, you can skim off pure and clean fresh water. This is one reason why the beach is also very popular with wild campers. From the beach, we continue to the fishing village of Loutro. There is a large selection of cozy tavernas there. We have a snack and a cool drink in a lovely spot right by the water. We then walk through the narrow streets of the village to the beautiful “Loutro View” at the southern tip of the village. There you have a fantastic view of the town. If you enjoy ruins and history, you can visit the Ottoman fortress right next to it. After a few pleasant hours in Loutro, we board the ferry back to Chora Sfakion.
The round trip ends in Chora Sfakion. Good bus connections in high and low season (not in winter!) allow daily return trips to Chania with the buses from “Ktel”. But don't forget that the journey will be very winding. A little tip for your return journey by bus: sit on the right-hand side of the window so that you always have the best view of the sea. You can see the Askifou plateau perfectly from the bus. The beautiful tour through the southwest of Crete and Gavdos ends with unforgettable moments and memories in your memory. Anyone who has been on this tour will know: It won't be the last time. There are far too many possibilities and highlights that this region has to offer. And who knows, maybe there will be a second part to this article.
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